What to Use to Replace Ceiling Tongue and Groove Tiles
Dwelling CLINIC
HOME CLINIC; How to Replace Ceiling Tiles
Encounter the article in its original context from
July 29, 1990
,
Section CN , Page
12Buy Reprints
TimesMachine is an exclusive benefit for home delivery and digital subscribers.
About the Archive
This is a digitized version of an article from The Times'due south impress archive, earlier the start of online publication in 1996. To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them.
Occasionally the digitization process introduces transcription errors or other problems; nosotros are continuing to work to improve these archived versions.
ACOUSTICAL ceiling tiles, which are made of porous forest or mineral fibers, are commonly used both equally new and replacement ceiling material. Although easy to install and excellent for absorbing sound, such tiles are also soft, easily cleaved and often hard to clean. Damaged or stained tiles more often than not must be replaced. Acoustical tiles suspended in metal or plastic channels from a ceiling are easy to replace. To remove the onetime tile, push button it upward, then tilt information technology and slip it out of the channels. Wearable condom goggles to protect against dust.
Mensurate the onetime tile, or have it to a abode center to buy a replacement. (Builders often exit behind extra tiles for repairs, so check before shopping.) If the old tile is not a standard size, use it equally a pattern for cutting a replacement from a new tile.
To cut acoustical tile, piece through information technology past making several scoring cuts with a sharp utility knife. Utilise a carpenter'due south square or steel ruler as a straightedge. Cut squarely so that the edges of the tile are vertical. To install the replacement tile, follow the removal steps in reverse.
Replacing tiles attached directly to a ceiling, or to a framework of narrow boards called furring strips, is more difficult. Such tiles are held past staples, agglutinative or both. Most are also joined with interlocking edges.
To remove a damaged tile of this type, be sure to vesture goggles. Also, one-time tiles may comprise asbestos; unless you are certain that the ones you are working with do not, wear a respirator rated for protection against asbestos particles; when finished, thoroughly vacuum abroad all grit. Avoid contaminating other areas. Position the ladder so that y'all will be reaching forward to the tile; if the ladder is directly beneath it, you will have a hard time balancing and will probably be showered with debris.
Using a sharp utility knife, cut the tile into pocket-size squares past making 2 parallel cuts a few inches apart beyond it in both directions. Remove the center foursquare, and so slide the other squares one by 1 into the resulting open space to free them from the narrow flanges, chosen tongues, of the surrounding tiles. If necessary, cut these squares into smaller ones.
Ordinarily, ii sides of the damaged tile will exist stapled through broad flanges to the ceiling or furring strips above the tongues of adjacent undamaged tiles. Wiggle the pieces free that are stapled, leaving the staples backside if they do not come loose. If any of the damaged tile breaks off and remains stapled, trim it flush with the tongues of the tile below it.
When removing several tiles equally a grouping, remove the kickoff tile as described, then slice diagonally between the corners of a neighboring damaged tile. Break the second tile into pieces and remove the fragments by gently tugging and twisting. Do the same with the remaining damaged tiles.
Pry glued tiles abroad from the ceiling with a putty knife, and use the same tool to scrape away whatsoever dried adhesive.
To install a replacement tile where merely 1 tile has been removed, get-go use the utility pocketknife - with a straightedge equally a guide - to cut the 2 broad flanges and one of the tongues from the perimeter of the tile. Then spread a ribbon of construction agglutinative or acoustical tile cement onto the back of the tile, around the three trimmed sides or where it will contact the ceiling or furring strips.
Agree the tile by its trimmed edges and slide the natural language into the groove of an adjacent tile. Using the natural language every bit a hinge, press the tile upward and so that the glue makes contact. Drive in ane or more iii-penny (1 1/4-inch) box nails on the side opposite the natural language to supplement the glue.
To avert accidentally striking the tile while hammering, bulldoze the nails to within an eighth of an inch of the surface; then use a nail set with the hammer to drive the nails until their heads are affluent. Cover the nailheads with paint to hide them. To install a group of replacement tiles, use staples, either by themselves if the tiles are attached to furring strips, or with adhesive if the tiles are attached directly to the ceiling. Go out the flanges and tongues untrimmed on all tiles just the last.
To adhere tiles with staples lone, slide each tile into place so that its tongues enter the grooves of the existing tiles. Then, using a stapling gun, install staples in the two wide flanges that are left exposed.
Tiles must be anchored firmly, yet be able to expand and contract with humidity changes. The usual practice for tiles 12 inches on each side (a standard size) is to space three staples evenly in one flange and put one staple at the farthest end of the adjoining flange.
For tiles 16 inches on a side (some other standard size), utilise four staples in 1 flange and one at the uttermost cease of the other. For double-size tile (12x24 inches), put v staples in the flange on the long side and i staple in the far cease of the flange on the brusk side. Try to install staples at an angle to the edges of flanges, not parallel to them, to increment their holding power.
If a grouping of tiles is to be cemented in place, apply adhesive or cement to each tile, every bit described. Then fit the tiles into place, i at a fourth dimension, confronting their neighbors. Next, install two staples in each wide flange to hold the tile until the adhesive hardens.
With either staples or agglutinative, install the final tile as described for installing a unmarried replacement.
Source: https://www.nytimes.com/1990/07/29/nyregion/home-clinic-how-to-replace-ceiling-tiles.html
Belum ada Komentar untuk "What to Use to Replace Ceiling Tongue and Groove Tiles"
Posting Komentar